I’m sure many of you would have seen the news this morning 14/4/23,  regarding HEMA and we understand as clients may have questions as awareness grows of gel allergies. 


We use calgel and they are currently trialling a HEMA-free builder to be able offer clients who may have allergies to sit alongside our Gel&Go colours with the view to eventually colour this clear for a full colour range. 


HEMA by itself DOES NOT cause problems when it is a safe range in terms of % of ingredients (which Calgel & Pro Colour are) and is applied and cured correctly.


The biggest cause of allergies is caused by under-cured gel sitting on the nail plate or repeated/ over exposure to gel on the skin.


 If it is cured properly the risks are minimal.  This is one reason why we as techs’ are recommended techs to wear gloves when working with any gel or handling solutions. 


Allergies seem to have increased over the years as the risk of at-home kits and people using incorrect lamps not suitable for the systems. 


Below is a quote directly from the European Commission enquiry into HEMA a few years ago when a rise in allergies was recorded.  Which did seem to coincide with the rise of at home gel kits – so now HEMA is NOT allowed to be used for any new products coming onto the retail Market and only available for professional products. 


HEMA is approved safe to use for professionals. 


The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has studied and provided its opinion (SCCS/1592/17) on the safety of these two cosmetic ingredients. HEMA and Di-HEMA-TMHDC are not likely to pose a risk of sensitization when they are applied appropriately to the nail plate at concentrations of up to 35% and 99% respectively as part of an artificial nail modeling system, and provided that their use is restricted to the nail plate only and contact with adjacent skin is avoided.


If you have any questions, please call Gemma on 01226 243 300 or 07514 120 022 or email gemsbeautystudios@hotmail.com.